With the extra connections, you may find it easier to use a breadboard and a micro:bit edge connector breakout to make building the circuit easier. If the voltage supplied to the servo is too high, half of that voltage becomes the pin threshold and the 3V from the micro:bit might not be enough to direct the servo. The micro:bit will supply 0V or 3V on the PWM pin0, and this has to be above the digital input pin threshold of the servo (this will be defined in the servo datasheet and often this is 0.7*VCC). Do not connect the positive (+/red) wire from an external battery pack to the micro:bit as you will damage it.Īdditional battery packs often come as either 4.5V (3 batteries) or 6V (4 batteries). The external battery pack supplies a higher voltage than the micro:bit. This way you are only connecting Pin0 and GND from the micro:bit to the servo (we still need to use GND to share a common ground with other parts of the circuit). The optimal method for connecting a servo is to use a separate battery pack to power the servo and use the micro:bit to control it. Trying to draw more power than the micro:bit can safely supply, could lead to damaging the device.įor micro:bit V1, the most reliable way to use this type of servo is to power the micro:bit via a battery pack and to use fresh batteries, as the battery voltage drops the servo will become less reliable.Ĭonnecting an external power supply to a servo Whilst these micro-servos can work with the micro:bit, the specified operating voltage for most servo motors is around +5V and that the micro:bit can only supply a small amount of power to connected circuits (3V and 90mA V1 and 190mA V2max). Usually the wiring colouring is Orange = Signal, Red = 3V, Brown = Ground(GND) A micro-servo such as the SG90 or Tower hobby servo (either 180-degree rotation or 360 degrees) can be connected from Pin0, 3V and GND and controlled by sending the signal on Pin0. It's easy to connect up a servo to the micro:bit either using crocodile/alligator leads or a breadboard.
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